How To Save Seeds FOR TOMATOES Tomatoes are self-pollinated, meaning the male and female parts are in the same flower, and that they usually pollinate their own flowers, with no help from insects, so many seed savers grow varieties side by side and still get around 100% pure seed, though many think that varieties should be separated by 6'-15'+ to make sure of 100%. Harvest very ripe fruit for seed saving, cut in half and squeeze into a bucket, then put the bucket in a warm spot & let seeds and pulp ferment for 3-4 days, (the mold that grows will kill disease on the seeds) at that time the pulp will come to the top and the seeds will sink to the bottom, after 3-4 days add more water and stir vigorously, then pour off the pulp, (you may have to add more water 3 or 4 times before the seeds are clean) then drain the seeds and put on sheets of heavy paper to dry, after about 10-15 days your seeds should be dry, when dry scrape off and put in a air-tight carton, store in a cool dry place, (the freezer is great!) They should keep for 10-50 years if stored in the right conditions FOR PEPPERS Peppers are self pollinated, but some insect pollination will happen, it is best to separate varieties by 35'-100' or so, for nearly 100% pure seed. Save seed from completely ripe fruit. Peppers are easy to save seed from. Simply take seeds out & dry. FOR EGGPLANT Eggplant are self-pollinated, so it is safe most the time only to separate varieties 15'-25' and still get nearly 100% pure seeds,(Red fruited types need greater separation) flowers generally pollinate themselves before they open, so most of the time you need not worry too much about insects, I have found eggplants planted side by side will cross at a rate of 2-10% of the fruit, so a little separation is needed when you plant 2 or more varieties in the same species, (note there is 7+ species). Harvest only very ripe fruit that has changed color all the way, and that is starting to look old, scoop pulp out of fruit and grind pulp, then put in a bucket, fill with water and wash pulp away, (seeds will sink to the bottom) drain and put on sheets of paper to dry. Keep cool & dry. FOR CORN Corn is wind pollinated, and varieties must be separated by 1/2+ mile for pure seed, or you can plant different varieties a few weeks apart, so varieties are not pollinating at the same time and get 100% pure seed, in zone 6, you can plant at least 3 varieties using this method. Or you can hand pollinate, see the book "Seed to Seed" for info. FOR LETTUCE Lettuce is self pollinated, and usually will not cross, the USDA recommends isolation of 12', but many people plant varieties side by side, lettuce needs cool weather. FOR THE BRASSICA FAMILY Varieties within the same species must be separated by ½ mile for pure seed, most types are biennial and have to over winter before they will produce seed, however some species such as radish’s and Chinese cabbage will commonly yield seed in the first summer. SEE BOOK "SEED TO SEED" FOR GREATER DETAIL. FOR BEANS AND PEAS Common beans and peas are self pollinating so you can plant side by side and still save around 99% pure seed, though some growers do isolate small distances for 100% pure seed. Harvest dry seed. For beans like Runners and Limas, see book "SEED TO SEED" FOR OKRA self pollinated crop, but it has large open flowers that bee’s easily cross pollinate, so if you grow more than 1 variety, you need to isolate varieties by a 1/4-1 mile, for pure seed, or you can tape small paper or cloth bags over flowers buds,(before they open) to keep bee’s out and that works great, take bags off after flowers dry and mark the pods with a string. Harvest pods when dry.) Basic Seed Saving info for Squash, Melons, Cucumbers and the whole Cucurbitaceae family- Tape the male and female flowers shut the evening before they open, to keep bees out, Squash are cross pollinating having both male and female flowers. You can grow 1 of each species in the same garden and save pure seeds, since species do not normally cross. If you grow more than one variety in a species you will need to separate them by 1/4 mile for pure seed, or you can hand pollinate the flowers and keep insects from crossing varieties. Here is the info on hand pollinating- There are male flowers and female flowers on the same plant, the male flowers have long anthers, and the female flower has a stigma and a small fruit under the flower, all the Cucurbitaceae flowers open in the morning, except true Gourds (L. siceraria)so they are taped shut in the evening and then reopened in the morning, and are hand pollinated, first open the male flowers & tear the petals off, then open the female flower, brush the end of male anthers on the female stigma, (note it is best to use 2 male flowers on the females to make sure of pollination) after that you simply tape the female shut again, to make sure insects can not get inside, and tie a strong plastic string to the flowers hand pollinated- so you will remember not to pick them tell they’re ripe! and that is about it! Pick the fruit when well ripe, if you store for a few weeks there will be more seed that will germinate, make sure you pick cucumbers after they turn yellow, and squash when the shell gets very hard. For squash, melons, etc. Cut in half & scoop seeds out, put in a bucket and fill with water & wash off pulp, the good seeds will sink to the bottom, drain and dry the seeds on sheets of newspaper, dry very well, and put in a air tight container, and keep dry and cool, (in a freezer is great) seed will keep for 4-10+ years if stored properly. happy seed saving!